Less casual overall, the upcoming season provides a fresh spin on work and leisure wear. After watching the Azzaro, Ralph Rucci 331, Chanel, Gucci, Tom Ford, and Balmain fashion shows for the fall/winter 2019/2020 season I promise, there is a lot to look forward to!
Every show included sheer black. The Tom Ford models wore black sheer pantyhose, Azzaro models sported billowy, sheer, navy, chiffon shirts, cut-outs, and maxi dresses. RR331models walked in wearing full length dresses with sheer details like cutouts that spiralled discreetly to the floor, Mandarin collars and frog closures. Chanel also featured maxi dresses, and Kimono inspired wrap dresses with sheer panels. Gucci embraced the lace with sheer tights in bold colors, and the Balmain show framed sheer items with satin of the same color, providing a monochromatic look.
Everyone embraced black. Blue was also present and accounted for in darker shades. Five shows featured silver as the metallic accent, and some featured silver as a stand-alone color with black accents. Stick with darker and richer shades including black, navy, and olive green, and shades with great depth like, crayon green, vermillion, dark rose, rust, and fuchsia to capture the runway vibe this fall. Cool tones won out over warm tones, included cool citron green, dark teal, and blue-hued puce. Some designers held onto the purple craze, steering away from a light breezy lavender and toward deep plums, and darker shades of lilac. Remember to look for cool-tones in whichever colors you choose.
Overall we saw a trend toward more textures, chunky sweater throwbacks, and oversized tailored cuts. Slick plastic, sleek polyester, smooth leather, soft velvet, raised chenille, and shimmery silver threads united the shows. Patterns include houndstooth, twill, large plaids, pinstripes (especially in menswear), and light wash, bleach brush denim. TIGHTS are BACK: Opt for opaque shimmers, lace in rich hues, and dark sheer navy or sheer black pantyhose. Oversized shoulder-pads, many folds of luxurious fabric, front pleats, ruffles, and snug sleeved re-imagined poet shirts graced the runways in many of these shows. Sequins return, and a flapper flair for fringe decorated dresses replaces the glitter of the past few years. Shimmer remains but finds itself subdued as it is a by-product of tightly woven polyester, adding light to the deep colors on this season’s runways, or as a satin trim for the sheer stars of the show.
Our top two designers from these six are Loris Azzaro and Tom Ford. Azzaro’s use of silver and navy is inspired. His sleek looks with just the right amount of sheer elevate the art of seduction. Maintaining a little mystery, his lines are flattering and flowing instead of snug and stretching. His inclusion of teal extend the mermaid vibe into the cooler months without looking like a polluted oil slick. His ruffles and fur accents are well placed and his black accents add a sharpness that juxtaposes the soft tailoring of this line. Tom Ford’s loose tailored looks lend themselves to the use of velvet in the richest hues.
Turtle necks with solid colored scarves under velvet jackets with leather trousers rock the runway and transfer to the street for a polished (and warm!) outfit. The hemlines on dresses and pants move downward to protect those sexy ankles from the prevailing winds we can expect this fall and winter. The polished look is comfortable as he moves away from skinny everything and toward a looser interpretation of comfort and style.